Retinol, inqanawe yevitamine A, isebenziswa kakhulu kwi dermatology ngokusebenza kwayo ngokukhulu kubuso. Isebenza ngokukhulu ngokuthutha kwekhando lebuso, ngokuqheke kwekage ukuphelisa collagen kunye nezilingo zokuguqula selula. Oku kubangela ukuba kube nekhando elilungileyo elibonisa ukuba umntu uyasebenzela kwayo kwaye elinehlobo elisha. Iindlela zokuchazwa kubonise ukuba inqanawa yokukena kweRetinol ikhawuleza kubuso kungasebenzise ngokukhulu nezinye iindlela zokulindela - ziyenza ukuba ibe yinto esebenzayo kakhulu ngokulandelana nekagesheli.
I-Retinol kanye ne-retinoids kudlalwa ngokuthi kuyinto efanayo, kodwa kunezilinganiso ezahlukene. I-Retinol ikhona ngaphandle kwezimvume futhi yenziwa ngokucapha. Le-retinoids, kanti, kuyindlela enkulu enkompasipho kanye nezinhlobo ezifinyelela kakhulu ezaziwayo ngokuthi kungenhla. Ukuchazwa kwezinkinga kuyahlukene; noma i-retinol ayiphakami ngokulinganayo ne-retinoids ezifinyelela kakhulu, kancane kancane ikhona amaphetho amanye okuthi kakhulu, kodwa angenzeka ukuthi kungenhla. Ukusebenzisa i-retinol ngokucophelela kubonwe ukuthi kwenza amaphetho amanye okuthi kakhulu ngaphandle kwezixhobo ezifinyelela kakhulu ezahlukene nezinhlobo eziphakeme, okuthiwa ukuthi kungenhla kakhulu kuye kusebenza ngokucophelela kwezimali zokudlala.
I-Retinol ikhuluma ngokuzalwa komhlaba ngokusebenza kumagodlo ukuvutha ukuguqula magodlo, okwenza ukususa kwamagodlo wesibhedla futhi ukuthuthukiswa kwezinye ezintsha, eziyinkimbinkimbi. Le mekanismo iyagelela ubunjwana bokunqanda ngokuthi i-retinol isimukela amagodlo e-fibroblast - leyo yisigaba esiyenza i-collagen. Imicabango yesidumbu ikhombisa ukuthi i-retinol uyahlulela kakhulu imikhovu futhi izindlela ngokuphathelene nezinhlobo zokusebenza, kuvelisa amandla walo ukugelela futhi ukubuyisa isimo esiphelile. Nakuba iyavutha ukugelela umhlaba, i-retinol isihlale njengoba yisikrume esikhohlwayo futhi esisebenzayo ekuleni ngemakhawulo.
I-Retinol ikhulwa ngokusebenza kwayo ekulahlweni kwezicelo ezingekeliweyo ngenxa yokuqanisa kwezilungu kanye nokuthuthukisa umsebenzi wokuxhasa kwesicelo. Le ndlela isebenza ukuxhasa isicelo endaweni ezithintekile ngumthwalo wonke njengama-arms ne-thighs. Izicelo ezininzi zokuchazwe ukuba ukusebenzisa izimboni ezingaphandle kwe-Retinol ngendlela ethubelwa kuzama ukuvuleka okubonakalayo esicelweni ngemizuzwana engu-4. Abasebenzisi bala ngokubona ukuthuthukiswa kwezicelo kanye nokulandela kokuphambene, ngaleso sikhathi i-Retinol iyindlela eqondile yokulawula amasunu aphathwe ngokwehlukaniswa komthwalo.
I-Retinol ikhulisa kakhulu ukubonakala kwe-skin ngokuthuthukisa ukuhluka kwezisindo, into ephindisa isimo sokuphula kwezimboni zokugcina. Le ngqikitho enkulu kunamathiselana kakhulu ekunceni kwemboni zokugcina ezingaphansi, sibona ukuba kube yindlela encane. Izigaba zabesifundo libonise ukuthi i-retinol ingakushintsha ukubonakala okungalingani kwe-skin, ngeke yabalele kakhulu kwezinye izinto ezithile. Ukusebenzisa kahle i-retinol kungenxa yezimpawu zokuqina kungenkululeka kakhulu, lokhu kwenza yinto enkulu yokudityelwa kwemigcamango ye-skincare.
I-Retinol ikhankatha ekuthatheni inkimbini yepigmentation ngokuvula ubudlelwane bocingo, ngaleyo ndlela kunceda ukufadeka kwemikumbi yemoya nokulula komkunyana. Kunesicelo sokuqinisekisa ukuba siqukume melanin sekutshekelwe yimboniso, okwenza umkunyana ukuhluka kanye nezintandokazi eziphandayo. Abasebenzisi abaningi bathola ukuncipiswa okukhulu kwemikumbi yemoya fakwa emikumbini emnyama eshiyekile ngemuva kokusebenzisa kahulumene, okubonisa indlela angu-Retinol akhankathela ukunceda ukumelana nomkunyana. Inkcukacha ye-Retinol yokuvula ukulula komkunyana kwenza ukuba yinto efunekayo yabo bonke abasebenzisa ukupigmenta.
I-Retinol ingubani elikhulu esenza ithuba lokusebenza kwamafibroblast, okungukwanele kakhulu ukwenza ithuba lokuvulwa kwekolajeni, okudingekile ukugcina ubushushu bokunene. Imivezo yezinhlanzi zasho ukuthi uma usebenzisa i-retinol ngokuvamile phakathi kweminyaka engu-12 ingavumela ukuvulwa kwekolajeni, ngakho ke ukuthuthukiswa kweqondo lelapha. Oku kungenza isithupha sokunene sibeke ngempela futhu kunezindlela zokuthanda nezintandatha. Ngokusebenzisa ngokuhambisana izinkumbulo zokuzalwa, i-retinol inikeza indlela ethinte imiphumela yokuzala.
Imigomo ye-Retinol yokhulisa ukuguqula kwe-skin cell yiye yemigomo ebalulekile, ekunciphiseni imicaba emikhulu futhi ethenhise ubushushu bokulinganisa kweskin. Imaphikelo etholakala eshishini lelo cabango, ibonisa ukuthi abasebenzisa i-retinol ngokuvamile bakhumbula ukuthuthukwa okukhulu kweskin nokubonakala kwayo. Le ndlela ikusiza iskin ukuthi ithathwe phansi amacell aphelile nezingcingo, ukuvula amacell amasha nangokuphezulu. Kube lula ukuba nguqule iskin engenazo imicaba, i-retinol iyisici esingelinye yesekela sakho sokulinda iskin.
I-Retinol ayikhetha kuphela ukuvula futhi ubanzi bwezinye izindlela; futhi lwenza indima ebalulekile ekuvuleni isihlandla sezingo ngemva kwezinsuku. Lokhu kwehlukene ngokukhula kusihlandla sezingo kunceda ukulungiselela isihlandla sezingo kusiko lasekhankerrhabeni. Izivivinyo zazithola ukuthi abasebenzisa i-retinol ngokwengeziwe zilalela ukutha okungenhla kwebuhlungu nezingo zokungcola njengoba isihlandla sezingo siyakhula ngokukhanya. Iindlela zokulungisa ezifanele kufaka phakathi ukulungisa kusiko lasekhankerrhabeni, ukwehluleka komoya, nezinye izindlela zokulungisa isihlandla sezingo ezidayishwa ngokudala, lokhu kwenza i-retinol into ebalulekile ekuphileni ngokudala kwezingo.
Ukukhetha ukuchazwa okulungileyo kuka-retinol kuyindlela esenza ngayo inkosi yokulawula nokuphepha kwamanzi. Okuchazwe ngaphansi, okungenani phakathi kwe-0.1% kuya ku-0.5%, kuvunyelwe abantu abenemipela engqangqe ukuthi bahlale ngokwenza impelo futhi libe lisebenze ngokwehlisa. Kumaqina amaningi angcono, amachazwe aphakathi kwe-0.5% kuya ku-1% angaba nezimpendulo eziphakade futhi zingakhathali iziphakamiso. Kuvunyelwe ukuthi uqale nazo le ndawo ezibonileyo ukuthi uphumelele kumaphefule futhi ukuze uhlangabele ukuthi usebenzise amandla amaningi. Le ndlela yohlangothini iyasiza ukuthi ube nezimpawu zika-retinol ngekho ukuthi awupheli noma kwenze isipo. Ukuxhumana ne-dramatologist engenayo umsebenzi wokuhola kuzodinga lokuphepha kanye nemikhondo yakho.
Ukukhetha phakathi kwekremi, izilishiyana kanye nezithuthi kubangelwa ngokuthi yini inkohliso yakho yomoya kanye nokuthanda kwakho ngokwezifiso. Iikremi, ngokuba yizinto ezikhulu, zinikeza indawo yokuvukela engavaleki amanzi, ngakho ke ziyisisekelo esifanelekileyo kumaqebhe amaningi noma amaqebhe amathaphu okudinga ukuvulwa okuningi. Iilishiyana zinikeza ukuphelelwa kwezinto; zilula kunekremi kanye nezithuthi zingena kakhulu, ziyisisekelo esifanelekileyo kuzo zonke iindlela zomoya kanye nabantu abathanda ukulwa ngokulula. Iizithuthi zinezinto ezinekakhulu eziphambene nezinto eziphumelelayo kanye nezizwa ngokuthekwethwe, ngakho ke ziyinkolelo kakhulu kodwa zilula, ziyisisekelo esifanelekileyo kubantu abaneminyango emhlophe. Isicwangciso sabelule ukuba ukusebenza kwekomborasi esiyiyo ngokulingana nenqanaba lokuphepha kweyomoya kakhulu kuyakhiqiza inkolelo yokusebenza kwe-retinol, ukuthutha kweyomoya kanye neyomoya elungileyo.
Ukuxhuma kuka-Retinol nezinhlelo ezingxenye zokungena kungenxa yokuthuthukisa inkokheli yakhe futhi ukulima izindlela eziphansi. I-Niacinamide yinto ephakeme, engaziwa ngokuthuthukisa ubushushu bwezintathu futhi ukunciphisa ukuchithwa, isebenza ngendlela yokuthi i-Retinol ithinte amandla. Ngakho-ke, i-asidi ye-hyaluronic ikhipha amanzi amakhulu, iyasebenza ngokuhlaka ukusulela kwe-Retinol ngokuthatha amanzi kufisela lezintathu. Imicabango ivikela imisebenzi yokuxhuma kwezombopho, iyashintshe ukuthi ukufaka ezinhleni lezi zingxenyana zenze ukuthi kube nezintathu eziphumelelayo, eziphakeme. Njengoba i-Retinol ingasulela, ukulandelana nazo nezinhlelo lezi zenze ukuthi kube nezeweyezelwe zokulindela lezintathu, ukuthuthukisa amandla nokubuyisa.
Ukuhlanganisa i-retinol kusendo yakho yokulinda inkunzi kufanele kube nekutsi yemvula ukuze ukwenzelwe ukucitha. Kuqala, ukusebenzisa i-retinol kwezinye izinsuku zimbili nekuphephile kakhulu kubantu bonke. Abasebenzisa inkunzi engceke kakhulu lo msebenzi ngokusheshayo ngokuthi kunezindlela zokuthi inkunzi yakho ibe yimfutho kakhulu ku-retinol, ukwezisa ukulingana kwezinkinga. Njengoko inkunzi yakho ibe yimfutho, ungakhulisa ngokwehla inani lezinsuku ozosebenzisa ngazo i-retinol ukuze ukwenzekelwe iziphumo. Kukhona ukubaluleka ukulandela lezi zindlela ukuze ukwenzekelwe amaphumo ka-retinol noma ukwezisa ukwehluka kwezinkunzi ezinhle.
I-Retinol ikhulwa ngokuba yisbopho, ngakho ukusebenzisa isikhwama esihle sokunqelwa emanzini ngemuva kwesikhathi sokuwalela siphambene. Izinto zokunqela amanzi ezifaka imithi kanye nezinto zokubaluleka kungcola ukunciphisa ukungcola kwezinye izinto. Lezi zinto zenza indawo yokuvikelwa kusona leso skin, ukukhuphela ukungcola kwezinye noma kanjani ukunqelwa kwezinye. Oku kungenzeka ukuthi kube lula futhi kudinga inkulumo.
Lokhu sebenzisa i-retinol, ukulungiselela kwakho kwezulu kumele kube yisicaba esikhulu ngokuba kunezindlela eziphakeme. Kumele ukusebenzisa isicrema se-sunscreen esine SPF ngokwendulo ukulungiselela ukuba kwezulu futhi ukuvikela ubudlelwane bokwelapha. Izinhlangano eziningi zazithola ukuthi ukungakhathali ukulungiselela kwesibhakabhaka lapho usebenzisa i-retinol kungaba nokuthuthukisa ukwehluka kwezulu. Ngakho, ukufaka ukulungiselela kwesibhakabhaka kumthombo wakho wezinyanga okuyisicaba sokuvikela iziphumo ezenziwa yi-retinol, ukuthi ubudlelwane bawophe futhi bube nezimali.
I-retinol ingaziwa ngokuthi ikhulisa ubudlelwane ngekho ukuthuthukisa ukwenza kwezilungu zokwelapha nezindlela zokuguqula, okuphathisa futhi kube nezimali.
I-retinol inetholakale futhi ingaphansi kakhulu, ikhuluma ngokulandelwa, futhi i-retinoids iyisigaba esikhulu esifaka phakathi kwezinye izinkomba ezinezindlela eziphansi.
Yebo, izinkinga eziphansi zokungena kwe-retinol, okungenani phakathi kwe-0.1% kuyeke 0.5%, kuchazwe kakhulu abantu abanelethile ukunciphisa ukulahlwa futhi ukutholela kahle.
Yebo, ukusebenzisa isikringi esivelayo sibonakalayo ngoba i-retinol inquma ukuvunyelwa kwezulu, yenza umlenze uvungeke kakhulu ngaphandle kokuphela.
Kulawulwa ngumda wemlenze neengcingo. Amacreme angcono kwezindleke ezimbuye, amaloshini ayafuna wonke amandla emlenze, futhi amasayimu ayagcinwa kuzindlela ezinhle.
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